My final class at Le Cordon Bleu
this trip was #20 (of 30) in the superior cuisine series. Chef Moine was a bit
more talkative than he was last Tuesday, and seemed to be having a better day
overall! And as before, his food was fabulous.
The first course was a crab “Charlotte.”
Crab meat was cooked in a court-bouillon (basically a clear stock made with
aromatic vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, water and wine) and then cooled. Asparagus
spears were blanched then shocked. Fresh tomatoes were cooked with shallots and
olive oil, seasoned, and puréed. A vinaigrette was made with reduced orange,
lemon and lime juices and olive oil. The asparagus spears were used to line
individual ring molds, then the crab was layered alternately with diced
asparagus stems and the vinaigrette. The plate was decorated with the pureed
tomatoes. The result: wonderful intense, distinct and harmonious flavors and
textures!
The seared scallops in the main
course were almost secondary to all of the accompaniments! Even the scallop “beards”
(which are normally discarded) were used in a stuffing for pureed potatoes –
the beards were cleaned multiple times (they are very sandy), then cooked with
thyme and bay leaf and diced. A duxelles was made with white mushrooms,
tarragon, and chives, then the beards were added to it. Fresh breadcrumbs,
Parmesan and butter were combined for a gratin topping. A carrot butter sauce
was made by reducing carrot juice and orange juice almost to a paste, and then
whisking in butter, lemon juice and grated ginger. Potatoes were cooked and
mashed with a lot of butter, then piped into about the bottom third of oiled individual
ring molds, then pressed up the sides of the molds to make a cavity in the
center, into which the scallop beard / mushroom duxelles was spooned. A thin layer
of the gratin was sprinkled on top, then they were baked until brown on top and
warm throughout. Holy moley!
Dessert was lemon three ways. A “jelly”
was made by boiling lemon juice, basil, lemongrass, lemon zest, sugar, and
water, then straining it, then using agar agar (alternatively, gelatin) to jelly it, then poured
into a sheet pan and refrigerated until set. A lemon cream was made like an “Anglaise”
with lemon juice, eggs, sugar and butter, using Xanthan gum as a thickening
agent. Some lemons were scooped out and the shell and "lid" were frosted by cooking in water. lemon juice and sugar. Another lemon was cut into thin
slices, which were dried in the oven. Another wowzer!!!
French techniques for turning
every-day ingredients into spectacular creations constitute an art form that
never ceases to amaze and inspire me. I learn something new every time I attend
a class at Le Cordon Bleu. Although I don’t cook like this at home on a regular
basis (!), I do use some of the techniques. And knowledge of the craft behind
the art form certainly does help me pay attention to and appreciate the food
that is set before me in great restaurants everywhere.
LCB classes are accessible to the
average cook (they are taught in French but everything is translated), and they’re
a hecuva deal (45 euros for 2.5 hours of instruction by a world-class chef,
with a small serving of each course to taste). They also offer day-long
workshops on a variety of topics (one of my all-time favorites was a foie gras
workshop several years ago!). And they post recipes/techniques on their website
and Facebook page. Check them out! http://cordonbleu.edu/index.cfm?fa=FrontEndMod.HomePage&&setlangid=1
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