American Chef Daniel Rose from Chicago made a big splash in the Paris dining scene nine years ago when he opened his first “Spring” restaurant - a tiny 18-seater - near Montmarte. Five ears ago he renovated a former skateboard shop in the 1st arrondissement, just a stone's throw from the Louvre, and relocated Spring there, about doubling the seating capacity. For a while they served lunch as well as dinner (now it’s dinner only), and for a while they had a wine shop at the end of the block. And now just a few weeks ago Daniel opened another new spot, a bistro in the financial district of the 2nd arrondissement. “La Bourse et La Vie” dispenses almost old-fashioned bistro fare prepared flawlessly and served in an un-fussy manner for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
So I had to give La Bourse et La Vie a try for lunch. It’s a lovely little place, maybe about 20 seats. The only reservation I could get was early, so I opened the place at noon! By 1:00 it was full.
When I sat down I was brought a giant gougeres (a savory choux [cream puff] pastry to which cheese has been added or incorporated in the dough). It’s the biggest one I’ve ever had – about the size of a softball. And yummmmmy! I think the waitress said it contained Gouda cheese. My guess is that they pushed a chunk of cheese into the dough before baking (rather than grating it and mixing it into the dough), but I could be wrong. I’ll have to experiment!
I love leeks, and I’ve had “leeks vinaigrette” a few times, so I wanted to try Daniel’s version. We have a winner, ladies and gentlemen! The poached leeks were sweet and tender, a great contrast with the finely-diced raw shallots. The blanched spring onions and chopped chives turned it in to an onions-onions-everywhere kind of dish, and the just-slightly-mustardy vinaigrette provided perfect acidity and punch.
The quail deep-fried in a buckwheat batter (similar to a tempura or beer batter) had fabulously crispy skin and sweet, pure, deep but not-too-gamey flavor. The pieces were topped with a slab of herb butter and some pepper preserves. This course was served with a green salad with a cream-and-vinegar dressing, just right for cutting through the richness of the quail.
And, of course, I just had to try his chocolate mousse. The big scoop was deep, thick, intense, and rich. I couldn’t eat it all!
As well as a fine chef, Daniel is a very personable guy and great businessman – a few years ago he remembered me a year+ after my first Spring visit (even remembering that we had had a brief conversation about Al Franken!). He stepped into the room just before I was going to leave today and greeted some friends who were dining there. Then he looked at me with a “hmmm…don’t I know you?” kind of look (I hadn’t seen him in a couple of years), so I reintroduced myself and we had a short chat. I asked him how he was enjoying the new place. He said, “it’s great – I don’t have to work nearly so hard!” I’m not sure if that means that he’s cutting back a bit in the kitchen at Spring, or that now that the renovations and opening work for La Bourse et la Vie are complete he has some breathing space, or that he’s happy that he can spend time with his young family now. But it’s only right that someone who has put so much into the Paris dining scene have some time to chill!
Check out the bistro here: http://www.labourselavie.com/ 12, rue Vivienne
P.S. After I wrote this post I learned that Daniel is opening at least one resto in New York and is moving there soon! So I guess that his comment about not having to work so hard was totally tongue-in-cheek. Come to think of it, he did have a twinkle in his eye. But then he always does! The news is here: http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/10/daniel-rose-new-york-city-restaurants.html#
P.P.S. If that weren't enough, he's opening another place across the street from Spring. Does this guy ever sleep?!? That news here: http://parisbymouth.com/daniel-rose-to-take-on-chez-la-vieille-new-york/
P.P.S. If that weren't enough, he's opening another place across the street from Spring. Does this guy ever sleep?!? That news here: http://parisbymouth.com/daniel-rose-to-take-on-chez-la-vieille-new-york/
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