Mariellen's (a)Musings: Doing a Few Things BRILLIANTLY – Canard & Champagne

Recently, I read about the new resto “Canard & Champagne” in Lobrano’s blog. Since I am a huge fan of both duck and the bubbly, I just had to go! They serve foie gras de canard, magret de canard, confit de canard, a steak, a few sides, lots of Champagnes, and desserts from the highly-regarded Boulangerie BO in eastern Paris. And HOO BOY, they do it brilliantly.

The slice of foie gras terrine was sweet, unctuous, pure, and prepared with precisely the small amount of spices and fortified wines to amplify the natural flavors without clobbering them – trust me, this is an art. It was dusted with a spectacularly crunchy mix of fleur de sel, pepper, poppyseeds, and parsley – an absolutely brilliant contrast and enhancer, quite salty and hot. The apple compote was cool, chunky and refreshing. I believe that the sourdough was Polaine – not too sour and just the right rustic touch. It was served with a refreshing, slightly citrusy Extra Brut Champagne – I believe that it was the Jacquesson – Cuvée 739. I did not want this course to end!

I had a hard time deciding between the magret de canard (rare seared duck breast) and the confit de canard (one of my very favorite things to eat, and something that I’m trying to perfect with Minnesota ingredients – cured, braised and aged duck leg & thigh). I ordered the confit, but the waiter accidentally brought me the magret. No worries, I was happy to try it, and oh my goodness, this one brought me to tears – it was the best I’ve ever had. I am almost at a loss for words. There is no fat as pure as duck fat, and it has an ever-so-slight astringency that paradoxically enhances the sweetness and creamy muscularity of the meat. And if you have the best ducks on earth to pick from and know how to prepare them like these guys, well, you win the championship! I chose the carrot purée with cumin for my side dish – it carried that sweet & creamy theme to even another level. This course was served with a Chartogne-Taillet Rosé Champagne, a bit more substantial with wonderful berry flavors.

I chose a choux pastry (cream puff) filled with very vanilla-y pastry cream and salted caramel for dessert. Perfection. It was served with Domaine Laherte Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Les Grappes Dorées – herbaceous, refreshing and a terrific pairing.

There's something significant to be said about focusing on a few things and doing them perfectly. And this resto, in Passage des Panaromas, is drop-dead gorgeous. I’m going to try to go again this trip to try their confit de canard. Want to join me?!?

Here’s a link to their website: http://frenchparadox.paris/fr/ 57, Passage des Panoramas