Ask to sit by the kitchen window at Ze Kitchen Galerie, and enjoy the controlled chaos! At first I was offered a seat along the wall, but the host said, “or perhaps you would like to sit looking in the window – it’s like watching TV – Master Chef!” Most excellent idea. He then picked up the rectangular stone knife/fork rest from the other side of the table, held it horizontally, and said “if you’d like to turn it off or change channels you can use the remote.” I’m sure he’s used that line before, but hey, I laughed! As you can see, this small (about 10’x10’) final-prep kitchen was filled with cooks (I saw 9 of them at one point), many of them apparently from local schools doing their internship (called a stage, pronounced stazh) here. I caught a glimpse of chef/owner William Ledeuil a couple times too.
While I was considering the menu and sipping my rosé Champagne (it seems to be a “thing” with me this trip), they brought an amuse bouche – a warm puréed potato soup containing lots of cream and a bit of fish roe (I think that’s what it was!), topped with salty crouton crumbs – foamy, peppery, smooth, crunchy, yummy. This resto also serves in-house carbonated water in special reusable bottles to cut down on waste and the cost & environmental impact of transporting bottled water – and it’s very pleasant stuff.
My first course was an outstanding light shellfish broth served over peas, white beans, asparagus, leeks, galanga (a root vegetable in the ginger family), and crabmeat – each prepped individually to its point of perfection – and topped with cilantro and dill. It was full-flavored and peppery yet light. Wowzer.
Next I had the daily special main course of young goat cooked medium on la plancha with barely pickled red onion, roasted baby onion, just-seared zucchini, tiny slightly-roasted radishes, beet purée, spinach, and demi-glace. I hate to admit that I’ve never had goat before, so I don’t have a basis of comparison, but this stuff was tender, sweet, mild, similar to veal but slightly more firm and elastic in texture. Holy moley, this was a wonderful plate.
Finally, chocolate soup! Actually, it was just-cooler-than-room-temp slightly chocolaty crème Anglaise with little blobs of chocolate ganache, three meringue “floating islands” and praline. It was so delightful that a person (at least this person) just had to chuckle.
I asked my server whether I could get a copy of the menu for a souvenir (thanks to Chef Don Saunders at The Kenwood in Minneapolis for this great suggestion) and he said, “of course, and I can have Chef Ledeuil sign it for you if you’d like.” Well, sure! Priceless! I would have loved to shake Chef’s hand too, but he was pretty busy with the kitchen staff and students. Maybe next time, because trust me, there will be a next time!
This resto is a couple blocks west of the Place Saint-Michel, just steps from the Seine. So if you’re going to Notre Dame or Sainte-Chapelle or the Latin Quarter, you really should stop in. Fabulous food and entertainment are guaranteed!
Check out their website here:
http://www.zekitchengalerie.fr/en/
 |
| Chef Ledeuil is in the center of this photo |
No comments:
Post a Comment