Thursday, October 25, 2012

A Burgundian Family Resto Just Across the Street - Wednesday, 24 October

Just across the street from me is Aux Crus de Borgogne, a restaurant featuring the specialties of Burgundy. I walked by at around 7:45 as I was returning from some errands (just after they opened, I think) and it was pretty dead.  Too early to eat anyway!  At around 9:30 I stopped in and it was absolutely bustling, but they were still able to find a spot for me.  It has two smallish sections, each seating maybe 30-40 people, mirrors everywhere, mosaic floors, and shiny paint, quite a "Belle Époque" style.  I heard a few languages being spoken, and a bit more English than I would like (and American English - and football conversation - I could swear that I heard a reference to Fran Tarkenton!).  All that English is often a sign of a behind-the-times, but still touristy, and unusually loud resto - Americans especially speak WAY too loud compared to everyone else.  They're open 'till 11, and at least two other clients arrived at about 10:15. This seems to be a family business - there were a couple of charming teenagers serving food and busing tables, and a gentleman who I'm guessing was their dad or uncle explained the menu and took my order.  The food was more traditional than "chefy."

So, the food.  First I had six really good escargot.  They were large, delicious, clean, sweet, and served with melted butter and puréed parsley & garlic (mercifully light on the garlic - often people use way too much).  Also something I've never had before: they brought a tiny glass of Pastis and an eyedropper!  The waiter explained that I was to put exactly six drops in each snail.  Wow, was that good!  Just the slightest aroma of licorice arose as the Pastis hit the hot snails, and it left a wonderfully subtle flavor.

Next, magret de canard (seared duck breast, typically done rare and sliced thinly) with sautéed cubes of potato.  This was a disappointment.  I could tell that the duck was a good product, but it was totally slathered with a honey-vealstock sauce.  If I were to order it again I would ask them to "hold the sauce!"  But the potatoes were dry and overly hot, so this dish wasn't the winner I had hoped.

But the dessert was great!  Three scoops of absolutely wonderful salted caramel ice cream with little ribbons of caramel running through it.  I would put it in the top two or three I've had.  (The best being at a little resto just outside the cathedral at Chartres).  And so pretty, served in a martini glass!

One of their specialties is lobster, and apparently Thursday nights are the big lobster night.  Grabbing one of those might be worth a try, or at least better than swimming in their duck sauce!





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