Friday, October 3, 2014

There’s a Reason why we have Traditions - Thursday, 2 October

Even if I’ve been able to sleep a little on the plane, I’m exhausted by the time I reach wherever I’m staying in Paris. I try to unpack, take a short nap, take a shower, and then go out to get a snack and explore my neighborhood for a little while.

Then, traditionally, I stay up just late enough to grab a pizza somewhere close at a reasonable hour (7-ish – I don’t want to appear too gauche!) and then get a good night’s sleep. Why pizza, you ask? Well, my brain can’t handle too much translating, thinking and evaluating at that point, it’s easy to order even if I stumble over every word, and pretty much every neighborhood has a decent pizza place.

Tonight I defied tradition and went to the classic bistro Chez Georges just a couple blocks from my apartment. Silly me. I had to read a hand-written menu (in black and red ink, no less!), translate it, try to understand questions I was asked, look at prices, make selections, speak comprehensibly, entertain myself while waiting, and stay awake – a lot to demand of myself my first day in town! This place has been on my list for several years, and it was one of Julia Child's favorites, so I decided to squeeze it in my schedule this time. Happily, they are accustomed to dealing with foreigners (and, I’m guessing, the jet-lagged), so they graciously helped out when I stumbled over things! Photos are below.  1, rue du Mail  https://www.facebook.com/chezgeorges1965/

Chez Georges sits on one of the corners of the lovely square in front of Basilique Notre-Dame des Victoires. Across the way is a terrific boulangerie/patisserie/café Le Moulin de la Vierge and a bunch of fun shops that I need to check out! A block to the west is the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne, and just to the south is the magnificent Place des Victoires. It’s going to take me a month to explore all these places! 

Very tasty radishes, butter, bread and a Kir Royale to start!

A fabulous just-warm Puy lentil salad for my first course - perfectly
cooked lentils, shallots, distinct blobs of Dijon mustard (brilliant!),
thyme, parsley, some cooking liquid to keep it moist, and
just a touch of vinegar or verjus to give it a little punch. Besides
my decent-size serving, they brought the bowl just in case
I'd need a little more.  I did. 

They're famous for their Sole Meuniere, but I decided
to try their "house" Sole Georges with shallots, cream
sauce, a couple boiled potatoes and parsley. It was the richest
fish dish I've ever had - almost overwhelmingly so. I couldn't
eat it all (but then I had really indulged on the lentils earlier!).
I spilled some of the cream sauce on my scarf - hmmm - maybe
I should leave it there, just in case I get really hungry some other day!

My neighbors' desserts looked fabulous (lemon tart, Tarte Tatin,
ice creams) but I was totally stuffed so I just went for coffee.  As
is often the case, it was served with some chocolates.  Just right!

The place seats about 60-70 people - it was really humming at 9:30 pm

The lovely Place des Petits Peres, just around the corner

No comments: