Little Neighborhood Joints - Saturday, 2 November

This afternoon I took some time to look at the menus in the windows of some of the little (20-30 seats) hole-in-the-wall eateries in my 'hood that I hadn't previously perused. These aren't the kinds of places that you will likely find in the Michelin Guide, but they can be very warm and welcoming and deeeelicious. And close to "home!" I've learned to schedule just one or two "fancy" dinners for each trip - I'm often just too tired in the evening to venture far - and these little joints fill in the blanks very nicely! Not every neighborhood resto is a great find, but every once in a while....

I have a particular soft spot in my heart (and palate!) for duck - rare magret de canard, succulent confit de canard, spectacular foie gras, etc. And wouldn't you know, one of the windows I peeked in this afternoon was of a place just around the corner that specializes in duck! So Le Grapillon (32, rue Tiquetonne) it just had to be - click on this photo to enlarge it to look at their cuisine menu, and you'll see why! When I got back to the apartment I called them and was able to secure a reservation for 9 pm.

From the extensive drinks list on the red wall opposite me I chose a new (to me) aperitif: Kir Sauvignon avec Creme Chataigne - a white Sauvignon with chestnut liqueur. Yummy and fascinating! It was sweet, with hints of lemon from the Sauvignon, a bit floral (almost vanilla-y), nice depth from the chestnuts, and just a touch of astringency. I'm going to have to look for a bottle of Creme Chataigne at the airport liquor store before heading home!

I went with the daily special "entree" (first course): a couple of large home-made raviolis filled with "market mushrooms": sauteed cepes, trumpets and chanterelles. The raviolis were topped with a really delicious creme fraiche mushroom sauce - I used my bread to soak up every drop!

Next, the magret de canard: slices of rare seared duck breast with a slice of foie gras melting into them and a poultry glaze on top (I wish they had left this off), a little ratatouille bundle, a broiled tomato half, some potatoes, and a yummy red bell pepper sauce painted on the "veggies" side of the plate.

Picking a dessert from their extensive menu was just as hard - take a look! I chose the Iles Flottante, creme anglaise (soupy vanilla custard) with "islands" of meringue floating in it, toasted almond slivers and caramel on top. It wasn't the greatest I've had, but it did hit the spot and inspire me to make it again when I get home!






I thought I was done, but with my check my charming waiter brought a compliementary shot of Limoncello liqueur as a digestif - just the thing I needed before venturing back out into the slightly chilly night! My bill? 39.5 euros (about $55). I was satisfied!

There are a couple of schools at the end of my block, and adjacent to them is a chained-off completely pedestrian zone (this is a pedestrian neighborhood, but most of the streets can be used on a limited basis by delivery vehicles and taxis). This was the scene as I was walking home from dinner. Aaahhhhh....

I'm So Glad that I Didn't Leave at Intermission - Friday, 1 November

Those of you who know me well know that I'm not shy about skipping the second half of pretty much any performance if I don't like it or if the piece isn't engaging me or if I've just "had enough" - I feel as if I would get more value from my ticket money by leaving at intermission than by sticking it out.

Well, despite two rather weird pieces comprising the first half of tonight's production by the Paris Opera Ballet, I stayed. And I'm sure glad that I did.

The first piece was called "Darkness is Hiding Black Horses" by Japanese choreographer Saburo Teshigawara. It felt downright apocalyptic, with spurts of smoke rising from holes in the floor, dancers in ragged costumes, electronic music interspersed with sounds of beating hoofs, strange video projections, very isolated and sharp/jerky dance movements, long almost-motionless stances, and multiple dancers on stage all in their own "zone" and not interacting for most of the piece.  It was interesting for the first 5 minutes, but it went on for 20 more minutes.  Zzzzz.

Second, Trisha Brown's "Glacial Decoy" with no music. I didn't "get" this piece at all and the lack of music gave me pretty much nothing to focus on. Four women in white pleated long almost nightgown-like dresses, dancing mostly independently with movements that to my eye were highly repetitive and didn't communicate much. Short almost peek-a-boo entrances and exits from the wings. Video projections that didn't seem to relate to anything. Like I said, I just didn't "get" this piece.

Then finally, after intermission, a piece called "Doux Mensonges" (sweet lies) by Czech choreographer Jiří Kylián. The music was a cappella Gregorian chant and madrigals by Gesualdo and Monteverdi, beautifully performed by the eight singers of Les Arts Florissants on stage and in the pit.  Movement and music, dancers and singers, entered and exited on red-light-lit square platforms ascending and descending the stage. It was especially interesting to hear the music arise from below the stage and return to it - like things hidden and revealed and hidden again.  For one piece five singers stand on their platform in their little huddle (the platform is lifted only about half-way up so you see just their torsos) and they take one small step clockwise every measure or so, rotating as a group and thus changing the sound. Magical! Two pairs of dancers create absolutely stunning fluid images, suggesting (to me) risk and trust and danger and beauty and agony and peace and mystery. An abstract fabric "cloud" hung above the stage. Costumes were simple burgundy leotards with grey tops and tights. Again there were video projections - filmclips that appeared to have been made in the Opera Garnier and under the stage - I didn't think they added all that much, but they weren't obtrusive. I absolutely loved this piece, and it ended way too soon! Here is a video report showing a couple snippets from a rehearsal:  http://www.ina.fr/video/PA00001250416

And here's the partially-obstructed view from my seat in the front-most box on the side of the Orchestra section of the hall.  Not bad, hey?!?

One more tidbit of the "good news" variety: I found the handicapped entrance (climbing those front steps can be a bit daunting)! It was on the side of the building, as I thought, but it's on the west side (not the east, where I thought it might be, next to the restaurant). So the bad news is that I had to walk all the way around the building to find it. In the rain. But once inside an usher took me to a special small private elevator (he had to use a key to run it) that was unbelievably beautiful - I'm guessing that it's used for heads of state and other very special guests. I wish that I had had the nerve to take a picture inside it! But you'll just have to trust me on this.

Paris Shuts Down for All the Saints - Friday, 1 November

It's All Saints' Day. Although the French aren't particularly religious on the whole, they sure know how to celebrate a bank holiday. There's very little traffic and maybe 75% of the little shops are closed (of the ones I wanted to go to anyway!). Some streets have temporary barricades, limiting them to pedestrian and bicycle traffic from 10 to 4.

So it's a good day for quietly reflecting on the heroes of faith in our lives. And if you don't want to be quiet, may I suggest that you join me in bellowing Ralph Vaughan Williams' spectacular hymn setting of "For All the Saints."  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OaBgaMcOvM

"For All the Saints Who from Their Labors Rest"
by William W. How, 1823-1897

1. For all the saints who from their labors rest,
Who Thee by faith before the world confess,
Thy name, O Jesus, be forever blest,
Alleluia! Alleluia!

2. Thou wast their Rock, their Fortress, and their Might;
Thou, Lord, their Captain in the well-fought fight;
Thou, in the darkness drear, their one true Light.
Alleluia! Alleluia!

3. Oh, may Thy soldiers, faithful, true and bold,
Fight as the saints who nobly fought of old
And win with them the victor's crown of gold.
Alleluia! Alleluia!

4. O blest communion, fellowship divine,
We feebly struggle, they in glory shine;
Yet all are one in Thee, for all are Thine.
Alleluia! Alleluia!

5. And when the fight is fierce, the warfare long,
Steals on the ear the distant triumph song,
And hearts are brave again, and arms are strong.
Alleluia! Alleluia!

6. But, lo, there breaks a yet more glorious day;
The saints triumphant rise in bright array;
The King of Glory passes on His way.
Alleluia! Alleluia!

7. From earth's wide bounds, from ocean's farthest coast,
Through gates of pearl streams in the countless host,
Singing to Father, Son, and Holy Ghost,
Alleluia! Alleluia!

8. The golden evening brightens in the west;
Soon, soon, to faithful warriors cometh rest.
Sweet is the calm of Paradise the blest.
Alleluia! Alleluia!

The Sweet Life! - Thursday, 31 October

Today's main entertainment: the annual "Salon du Chocolat" at the exposition center at Porte de Versailles in the 15th arrondissement. You're hit with the scent of chocolate even before you walk in the door. Several vendors are selling crepes and waffles, so those scents make the air even sweeter (which is hardly possible).

Boy, these Frenchies sure know and love their sweets - this two-floor 400-exhibitor giant "salon" is not limited to chocolate, far from it! I took a few photos to prove it. The funny part is that when I got home I realized that I hadn't taken any shots of the bewildering variety of chocolate (and other) candy vendors and their products, just of the ancillary stuff! Oh, well, trust me. There was a massive amount of chocolate there. This event goes through Sunday...I wonder how much the vendors be taking home with them. Hey, maybe I should head out there again on Sunday afternoon to see if I can pick up a few really good deals! (Nah, today's crowd was almost overwhelming...I can't imagine what it will be on Sunday!)

By the way, you can click on any photo in this blog to enlarge it.

Some ancient candy-making machinery.  Not sure what it was for, but it sure looked serious!

 Mounds of colorful spices, rices, salts and peppers

Giant round loaves of spicebread, a big treat here.  It is served with cheese, sausages, foie gras (and anything else that might strike your fancy!).

Chocolate clothing. Yup, a style show is apparently a traditional feature of the exhibit each year. Only in France!

My favorite "Canelé" cakes, a specialty of Bordeaux, and something few bakers seem to get right (they are a bit tricky to get absolutely tender inside and nice and crispy outside). I grabbed a box of eight of the minis, and I'm happy to report that they're perfect! I see that this vendor, Canelé Lemoine, has a shop in Paris...must add that to my standard itinerary!

Crowds lining up for foie gras sandwiches

Grilling the foie gras

A cooking competition









Racks upon racks of chocolate-making supplies, molds, tools, fountains, etc.

More spicebread, this time baked in giant square loaves. I bought some of this guy's honey-raisin-prune variety. Yum yum!

A whole world of nougatine awaits you

 And mountains of dried fruit

A Champagne tasting booth. Here you could pay 8 euros and try all of their varieties. There are other booths with chocolate (and other) liqueurs to drink &/or to use in candy making. Lots of wines too - they do go well with chocolate.  So there's no excuse for going home either hungry or thirsty!

 Giant slabs of chocolate piled on top of each other like tectonic plates

Crowds gathered for the demo by chefs from the Ferrandi cooking school in Paris. There was almost a stampede when they offered copies of the recipes. 

The demo begins.  There were also several smaller workshops on specific topics throughout the building. And a song-and-dance show on the 2nd floor (as if all of this chocolate and sugar didn't have us wired enough already!).

This appeared to be hands-on training in front of an audience. The participants looked only slightly bewildered!








I bought my ticket online in advance for 13.5 euros - it provided entry and lots of sampling. But can you believe that I didn't buy any chocolate at the show? Actually, many of the great vendors have shops in my 'hood, and I'm guessing that their prices are about the same. I did manage to snag some wonderful dark "miel de foret" (forest honey) and some whimsical macaron earrings (in addition to my Canelés and spicebread), though. So it was an entertaining and successful afternoon as far as I'm concerned. But then I'm easily entertained!

Halloween "Light" - Thursday, 31 October

There's little evidence of American-style Halloween here in Paris. Apparently some merchants tried to get the populace interested in decorations and costumes a few years ago, but it fell flat. I did see one woman with her two little kids in costumes this evening, but that's about it so far.

Except for the very cute and subtle decorations on the sidewalk tables of the café where I was "celebrating" happy hour. The proprietor had hollowed-out some oranges, cut Jack-o-Lantern faces in them, and made votives out of them! So I'm gonna call it Halloween "light" (groan!).

The good news is that you have plenty of time to copy this idea for your party table tonight.  You're welcome!

Euphoria Times Three - Wednesday, 30 October

One of my very favorite cheeses is Brillat-Savarin, a soft and velvety 75% fat creamy-yet-zingy and slightly salty cow's milk cheese eaten young.  I had read that you could buy Brilliat-Savarin with an embedded layer of black truffles in Paris at this time of year, and sure enough, they had it at the cheese shop around the corner.

Wow! It blew me away. Euphoria times two.  I think that little bits of flesh from the top of my head must be stuck to the beams in the ceiling.

And this half-wheel cost me just 5 euros! Euphoria times three. I picked up a decent bottle of Bordeaux today for 11 euros (2010 Chateau Goubau) and one of Eric Kayser's fabulous "baguette cereal" (whole grain with sesame and poppy seeds). This will certainly tide me over until dinner late tonight. Or who knows, it might take the place of dinner!

Artisan de le Dallage - Wednesday, 30 October

A little section of rue Montorgueil (the great food street just outside my door) was damaged. It had been quickly repaired with concrete. Yesterday they were jack-hammering the concrete. Today the artisans were out, repaving it with the classic paving stones, about 3"x3"x3" cubes of granite.

Beautiful!  I love this place!

My Pavlovian Reaction at Vaugirard - Tuesday, 29 October

I attended a lecture/demonstration at Le Cordon Bleu today, and I gotta tell ya - I have a downright Pavlovian reaction just riding up the escalator exiting the Vaugirard Metro stop and seeing the beautiful building just ahead of me and the Square Adolphe Chérioux to my right (named after a former mayor of the 15th Arrondissement, in which this resides). These videos probably won't do anything for you, but I add them for my own saliva-inducing benefit!

On the "menu" of today's lecture/demonstration were:
* a Chanterelle "fricassee" with apricots, chicken oysters, cocks' combs, New Zealand spinach and "Vin Jaune" wine emulsion
* rabbit saddle prepared Jean-François Piège style, polenta with olives, tiny gem lettuces with a basil/oliveoil/salt puree, and rabbit/veal/sage jus
* citrus zest ice cream with kiwi coulis, meringues, white and red grapefruit sections, Chantilly cream, and mint leaves

The final dish

The raw cock's comb

My favorite Chanterelle mushrooms cooked gently in oil and butter with shallots, dried apricots and just a splash of Vin Jaune (a dry white, slightly straw-tasting wine) was a revelation - great depth of flavor, and the play of various types of earthiness was wonderful! Chicken "oyster" muscles were blanched, then rinsed, then sauteed - very tasty.  The cocks' combs were cooked in a "blanc" (water, a bit of flour, salt) then rinsed and cut into triangular sections, sauteed and then deglazed with red wine vinegar (while they were still in the sautée pan - a typical technique when preparing all "organ" meats, this ensures that there is no residual bacteria in the final dish). The cocks' combs were rather strange - not very much flavor and very gelatinous (I don't think I'll go out of my way to have them again!).

The preparation of the rabbit saddles was fascinating.  The backbone was removed (and later sauteed and reserved for the jus). The "flap" portion was kept attached to the loin, and the interior side of the flap was lightly scored in a criss-cross fashion. The kidneys were skinned then sliced and placed on the flap, and it was seasoned with pepper, lemon zest, fresh thyme, and fresh marjoram. The loin was then rolled up into the flap and the whole thing was rolled up sausage-style several times in a piece of aluminum foil and the ends twisted. The rabbit saddle was then sauteed right in these little aluminum foil rolls - a great technique that preserved the moisture (rabbit can often be dry) and flavor and delivered a nice tender texture.  The polenta-with-olives went very nicely with it, offering both sweet and sharp notes. And the little lettuces were cute and tasty and provided a nice crunch!

Chef's presentation included some
sterling silver leaf!

My portion of dessert - they
gave me one of the fanciful
meringue shapes as well as
one of the little "hedgehogs"

I'm not too crazy about grapefruit with ice cream, but this ice cream was fabulous - strips of orange, lemon and grapefruit zest were infused in the milk as it was warmed for its crème anglaise base. The meringues were tasty, crispy and fancifully shaped. And the kiwi coulis (the flesh cooked in 50% sugar syrup and then pureed) provided a nice color and flavor contrast.

Chef Frédéric Lesourd taught this class.  He holds several diplomas and has worked in significant positions at Maxim's, Le Bristol, L'Espadon at the Ritz, Hotel Meurice, and at Élysée Palace.  He has taught at Le Cordon Bleu since 2008 (including several of the lecture/demonstrations I've attended) and always has fun with the students while always provideing a wealth of historical and technical information.

If you've read my previous blog entries, you know all about lecture/demonstration classes at Le Cordon Bleu. So this is for you new folks! Anyone can attend one of these for 45 euro, and typically there is no need to pre-register (although it doesn't hurt to call ahead). You're just attending the 2.5 hour lecture portion of a lesson along with the regular students (they later make the same dishes in their "practical" - this portion is not available to the public) and you get to taste the end results. LCB publishes a quarterly schedule of these classes and you can call ahead to get your name on the list if you like or just show up at least 15 minutes before class starts (it can get pretty crazy busy in their lobby). You can pick up the quarterly schedule at the school (8, rue Léon Delhomme in the 15th arrondissement) or request one from their website www.lcbparis.com (although finding it is a bit tricky) or write them an email at paris@cordonbleu.edu . Classes are taught in French, but they are fully or partially interpreted in English.

For my Resume: French TV Food Reporter - Monday, 28 October

What can I say? My life cracks even me up some days.

Like today. I'm strolling through the 'hood after lunch, down rue Bachaumont (a beautiful little street where I rented an apartment for a couple weeks a year ago).  Almost right outside the door of that building was a new shop: L'atelier de l'eclair. You guessed it, a tea shop / pastry shop that sells only eclairs. You can buy them "to go" or sit down at tea time for your eclair fix (something we all need, right?).

Apparently the shop just opened, because a TV crew was there filming. And guess who the reporter wanted to answer some questions for the camera. Oui, moi. And they were fine with interviewing me in English. THIS IS GOING ON MY RESUME!

It seems that eclair shops are all the rage now. Of course eclairs are almost as Parisian as croissants - you can find them in all patisseries. But shops that have a dozen sweet varieties and a dozen savory varieties (ham & cheese, salmon, foie gras, club sandwich, ...) in three sizes - well, that's pretty new.  http://www.latelierdeleclair.fr/14-nos-eclairs

I took home two tiny "cocktail" size eclairs: one salted caramel and one "red fruits" (filled with fabulous mousse and topped with an intensely flavored glaze), made some coffee, and inhaled them. Woo hooo! This is the life!

I also grabbed a coupon for two eclairs + coffee for 6 euros in the sit-down tea shop. Guess where I'm going for afternoon tea tomorrow?

At this point they have three locations:
* 66, ave des Champs Elysees in the 8th
* 16, rue Bachaumont in the 2nd
* 13, rue des Archives in the 4th

It's comforting to know that I never have to go too far for my "fix" if I stick to these fashionable neighborhoods.

Remember to watch for me on TV if you're in Paris over the next few days! And if you see me walking down the street laughing to myself, be kind - I'm not crazy, just terribly amused by my life.

I Don't THINK we Brought Home Any Fleas! - Sunday, 27 October

Michal and Liz considering
an alternative to Delta
for their trip home!  Yup, this is
in the flea market.

This afternoon I dragged Liz & Michal up to the Marché aux Puces (flea market) at Saint-Ouen (just past the end of the #4 Metro line at Porte de Clignancourt). I frequently try to describe this place to people, without a lot of success -  it just boggles the imagination! One of these decades I just have to buy a chateau in the countryside and furnish it with antique furniture, mirrors, sculptures, fabrics, rugs, plates, crystal, silver, prints, artwork, chandeliers, marble fireplaces, kitchenware, books, music, Victrolas, and miscellaneous baubles from this market! (That is, of course, if I buy a winning lottery ticket or all my pals chip in!)

The First-Class cabin

This time only I bought a couple little items from one of the hundreds of markets within Saint-Ouen, so chances are good that we didn't bring home any actual fleas. But we all ignored my admonition to "just keep walking" through the cheap merchandise stalls you encounter before entering the market. Some little souvenirs plus really nice scarves and a jacket were just too much to pass up!

It was drizzling as we walked home from supper this evening, so we didn't look our tidiest, but Liz & I just had to have our picture taken occupying my building's elevator. It has a maximum capacity of four! Yup, right. Four skinny Frenchies!

Reformation and a Revelation - Sunday, 27 October

Today was Reformation Sunday, and the worship and sermon at The American Church in Paris (my favorite Sunday morning haunt) were absolutely edifying and challenging. The place was full as always, and Luther, Calvin, Cranmer and Knox were present in their stained glass windows!

And, as always, the coffee after the service was good and strong and hot! This non-denominational Protestant church attracts people from all over the world for whom English is a first or second language (and who are visiting or working in Paris) - just imagine the lively conversations that take place over coffee.  The #63 bus stops right outside the church, so lots of parishioners board it at the same time to go home, and they continue their conversations there.  Today I eavesdropped on a journalist and a mathematician who were talking about their recent articles/books and the changing landscape for freelancers in Paris.  The women of the church publish the best guide for living here that I've seen - it's called "Bloom where You're Planted" and covers everything from schools to shopping to renting/buying to services to health care to raising a family to starting a business to .....  So if I were to ever decide to actually move to Paris, you can pretty easily guess where I'd first start connecting with people! http://www.acparis.org/

Ms. Anderson (left) talking to
some folks after the service.

This church has a great music program - choirs, soloists, organ, piano, handbells, etc. (plus very fine free recitals by visiting musicians every Sunday afternoon).  But choirs and soloists from all over the world also come to The American Church to offer their unique gifts to enhance the Sunday worship services.  Today was a revelation!  An amazing virtuoso solo handbell player, Christine Anderson from California, played her arrangement for handbells and piano of "Fount of Blessings" between the Epistle and the Gospel and "Be Still My Soul" for the Offertory.  Wow!  It was something I've not seen before and am unlikely to see again.  Here's a video of her in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkkC4oMdJ54