Travel Pleasantries and Future Challenges! - Thursday, 26 January

I started my posts for this trip by complaining about how much I dislike the actual traveling part of a vacation.  I was going to augment those thoughts by grousing about a group of American teenagers who were on my flight back home and who were all chatty and giggly and disturbing the peace of old codgers like myself.

But then, about an hour into the flight after I had gotten up to go to the restroom and perambulate the cabin, a woman who saw me walking down the aisle came to my seat and said hello.  It turns out that she was an old acquaintance who teaches at Bethel University, my alma mater, and who was the leader of said group of chatty teenagers who were just returning from their January term abroad in Jordan and Israel!  What a delightful coincidence!  And to make matters even better, she said "how appropriate to run into you on a flight from Paris" since she had been one of the guests at a series of French dinner parties I gave many years ago.  She then went on to talk about how significant those dinners were for her and her family - piquing their interest in international cultures (which now includes places like Jordan - wow!) and introducing them to the pleasures and the art of long dinner parties where the entertainment is the cuisine and the conversation.  This was most gratifying and encouraging and challenging for me.  

I've started "cooking up" ideas for retirement endeavors (for not too many years from now!) and even got a brainstorm or two while I was in Paris.  I will just end the blog posts for this trip on that note, inviting you to stay tuned for the continuing adventures of "Mariellen, la Parisienne!"

Ain't Technology Grand?!? - Thursday, 26 January

A tip for those of you who might be planning international travel and need to have access to the Internet for work (or other!) purposes.   WiFi service can be spotty overseas, or expensive, or weak, or hard to figure out, or limited (or all of the above).

My friend Dale told me about a company called XCom Global in San Diego that rents small light personal WiFi "hotspot" equipment that they call a "MiFi" configured to work in whatever country you're traveling to.  You pay about $15 a day, the service is unlimited, the equipment comes with rechargeable batteries plus all the necessary cables and outlet converters to recharge said batteries.   You can have up to five devices communicating with the MiFi at the same time, so you and your family and/or colleagues can all use the same device, as long as you stay within about 10 feet of each other!  There were times when I had my smartphone, iPad and netbook all online at the same time, no problems.  And the signal was almost always in the "excellent" range.  I

I just tossed the small MiFi (it's about the size of a smartphone and less than half the weight) in my pocket and turned it on when I wanted to use one of my devices - in cafes, in parks, on the bus, on the Métro, etc.  One day I should have brought along an extra battery (I forgot to turn off the MiFi and ran down the battery that was in it), but no problems at all with the equipment and the service!

They FedEx the equipment to you to arrive the day before you leave home so that you have time to test it out.  And they give you a postage-paid envelope in which to return it.  Easy peasy.

Here's a link to the service: www.xcomglobal.com  Don't leave home without it!

Slurping my Vitamin C - Wednesday, 25 January

Orangina is another of my favorite beverages for my "gotta take a load off my feet at a café" breaks, and this is a particularly stylish presentation thereof (with a wedge of fresh orange and everything) at the café adjacent to E.Dehillerin, my favorite cookware store.  (For more about my long-standing addiction to the place, check out this blog entry from a couple years ago: E.Dehillerin 2009-06-20 )

I guess that I could order an orange juice and get a bit higher dose of Vitamin C, but hey, what fun would that be?

Palais-Royale Garden - Wednesday, 25 January

I hadn't hung out in the gardens on the back side of the Palais-Royale for several years, but since my path from the bus stop to E.Dehillerin (my favorite cookware store) and G.Detou (my favorite baking/confections shop) took me near it, I decided to swing in for a look!  It's very lovely, even in winter, formal, and highly structured, but it totally takes you out of the hustle and bustle of the city to just relax and commune with nature for a while. Or to stroll.  Or to have a cup of tea.  Or to shop if you have big bucks (e.g., Stella McCartney's boutique is on the left in this photo -->)!

Lunch (and Shopping Tidbits) at l'Epi Dupin - Tuesday, 24 January

Amuse bouche of "Crème
Parmentier" (creamy
potato-leek soup) 

First course of creamed scallop soup
with squash puree and
with six slices of truffle floating on top!  
(Extra charge for the truffles,
and extra yummy!)

One of the hot restaurants in my 'hood is l'Epi Dupin.  The food gets pretty good reviews, but lots of reviewers mention their business savvy.  I see why.  I walked by a little after noon and poked my head inside to see if they were full (the reviews do say that you need reservations).  The maître d' said that they were, but asked (in fine English) if I could come back at around 2:00.  I said "oui, merci" (it's just a couple blocks from the apartment) and he took my name.  He welcomed me by name when I returned and gave me a nice place on the enclosed terrace.  He then got the chalkboard and explained the full menu to me very clearly and accurately (they have a "prix fixe" menu at both lunchtime and dinner).  I ordered, and then he asked if I'd like him to select a wine for me based on the dishes I selected, saying he'd find something nice yet economical (as I recall, the actual phrase was "would you put yourself in my hands?" - gosh, what an offer!).  I said "sure" in my best midwest accent!  I'm sure that he was impressed!

Grilled veal on a bed of herby roasted
potatoes and bacon, with a wonderful
veal sauce and their really tasty
house "epi" (a whole wheat baguette
snipped and twisted before baking
to look like a wheat stalk).

My food and wine was very good - see the photos and captions.

Dessert - roasted pears with
gingerbread ice cream, caramel
sauce and a beignet on top!

As I was leaving I asked the maître d' about the two bicycles parked right outside the restaurant.  They're the shopping vehicles for the chef, François Pasteau, and himself when they go to the local street markets for fresh vegetables etc. (when it's not raining, he was quick to add!)  It's a little hard to see, but the bicycle on the right has a wooden crate on the front - it's used by Chef.  The maître d' takes the bicycle on the left with the large yellow box.  So cool!

Later I heard the maître d' explaining the menu in Japanese to another guest.  Wow!  Talk about multi-lingual and customer-focused!  Their website is also well translated.  Although there appeared to be quite a few locals here, they clearly know the importance of reaching out to the customer.  www.epidupin.com

You Can Get Everything You Want - Tuesday, 24 January

Every neighborhood has at least one of these handy-dandy hardware-housewares-miscellaneous-stuff stores.  You can't buy food here (at least as far as I could tell), but pretty much everything else!  This is the one by my apartment.  I kid you not - I saw dishes, pots & pans, batteries, silverware, pet carriers and supplies, flashlights, carpeting, oilcloth, tin boxes, kitchen gadgets, shopping carts, shopping bags, toys, firewood, film, glassware, vacuum cleaners, paint, dropcloths, paint brushes, furniture polish, twine, hammers, wrenches, screws, nails, shower curtains, blinds, baskets, casseroles, teakettles, ladders, napkins, mops, alarm clocks,  ....   I could go on and on, but you get the point.  If you're here on a rainy day, don't despair!  Just drop into your local "droguerie" and browse for a couple hours!  Then go across the street for a beer.

Diamonds in the Night Sky - Monday, 23 January

See?  It really does sparkle on the hour!  (I took this from my window, so the base of the Tower is obscured by the building across the street - sorry.)

Entertaining Myself with Pasta - Monday, 23 January

As I was wandering through la Grande Épicerie de Paris today I spied this bag of mixed pasta shapes and colors - notice that there is even one shaped like the Eiffel Tower!  Just couldn't resist them.  And it got quite chilly tonight, so I decided to grab a jar of nice fresh tomato sauce and cook at "home" - I still had some yummy olives and a couple kinds of cheese and a nice bottle of wine in the apartment.

The pasta tasted like, well, pasta.  But it was entertaining.  I think we'd all agree that "entertainment" is one of the objectives of a vacation.  OK, maybe we obtain it in different ways, but I'm callin' this one as a success!

Still Life, with Coffee - Monday, 23 January

Some people spend a lot of time in museums.  It's a good thing - I might even get to one yet this trip!  But I tend to walk around for a while and then plop myself down at a nice sidewalk café and watch the world go by, read a bit, plan where I'll saunter off to next, mess around with my phone and iPad, etc.

Today I planned to go to the "Comptoirs Richard" shop on rue du Cherche-Midi, just a few blocks from the apartment, to see if I could buy some of their wonderful individually-wrapped version of "Speculoos" (beautifully airy, slightly gingery, brown sugar cookies) that are served with your coffee at many cafés.  They were closed today, but happily the café right across the street served them!  And the sun was out for a short while!  Life is good.

Come Back, Jean Luc! - Sunday, 22 January

My favorite baker, Jean Luc Poujauran, sold his gorgeous little retail establishment on rue Jean Nicot almost 10 years ago.  Its cute pink exterior and blue awnings are still there, but without JLP's magical natural baguettes, mind-blowing croissants, spectacular canneles, and countless other good-for-your-spirit treats (which, of course, I believe are good for your body as well!).  He now bakes breads for the best restaurants in town from his business next door (see the JLP above the non-entrance?).  I gotta get a list of those places!  Better yet, let's get him to open a retail outlet somewhere again.  Join me in the chant: "Come back to a shop, JLP, JLP!"

I think I read somewhere that he also teaches classes.  Gotta research that too.  I'm sure that I would learn a lot if I could just avoid falling under the spell of his gorgeousness!

Beautiful Bells on the Seine - Sunday, 22 January

As you may have read on my posts from prior trips, my favorite Sunday morning haunt is The American Church in Paris - it's a lively non-denominational Protestant church with excellent preaching, marvelous music, tons of programs for all ages, bible and book studies, a beautiful building on the banks of the Seine, job- and housing-posting boards for the public, the most racially diverse congregation I've ever encountered, and really good coffee after the 11:00 service!  www.acparis.org

Often, touring choirs from colleges and churches provide preludes and special music for the service, but this week it was the church's own large handbell choir playing Festival Prelude on "Deo Gracias" by Sondra Tucker between the Ol Testament reading and the Epistle.  Wow!  I have never heard such insightful playing with such varied styles and effects; they even played some huge octave 2 handchimes in this piece.  But the beauty of the composition and the depth of expression and musicality of performance were what absolutely captivated me (and the packed church) - several soft "amen's" were heard at the end of the piece, and one guy just couldn't refrain from applauding (something not normally done there!) so we all joined in!

People often ask me if I'm considering retiring to Paris.  I'm not, primarily due to mobility issues, but if I did, one of the attractions would certainly be the opportunity to sing in the choir and/or participate in other musical and educational and fellowship opportunities at ACP!  Here's a shot I snapped towards the end of the fellowship/coffee time in the theater adjacent to the sanctuary after the service (the crowd had thinned considerably by this point).  A good time was had by all!

I Have Fallen in Love with a 22-year-old Armeian 'Cellist - Saturday, 21 January

One of my highly anticipated events this trip was the recital of Tchaikovsky Competition winners at Salle Pleyel - I bought my ticket in September!  Little did I know that the recital would feature the first- and fourth-prize-winning pianists as well as the first- and third-prize-winning 'cellists.   And that I'd fall in love with the first-prize winning Armenian 'cellist, 22-year-old Narek Hakhnazaryan.  What a gorgeous rich sound!  What impeccable technique and pyrotechnics!  What humor!  What style!  What soul!  And what a cutie pie!!!  If he doesn't already have a US fan club, I'm starting one.

He played the Tchaikovsky "Pezzo capriccioso op. 62" (gorgeous rich melodies, astonishingly fast and intricate passage work with delightfully humorous leaps and sighs and moments of suspended animation); then the profound and personal Fauré "Élégie" (wherein the audience collectively almost stopped breathing and waited for several seconds before applauding, starting only after a deep Russian-sounding voice shouted "bravo"); then the Paganini "Variations on a theme by Rossini" (even more pyrotechnics and perfect harmonics) after which the audience could barely control its enthusiasm.  Narek was accompanied by the first-prize-winning Russian pianist, Daniil Trifonov, who returned after intermission to play solo Debussy and Chopin - he also performed with brilliant technique and understanding, and the audience loved him, but I preferred the stylings of my new sweetie Narek!

It wasn't exactly smooth sailing getting to the concert - I was sure that I had placed my ticket in my folder of papers, but alas I seem to have left it at home (of all the things to forget!!!) so I had to find a cybercafe in which to download it again and print it.  There used to be cybercafes all over the place earlier this century, but with almost everyone having laptops or netbooks or iPads, there are only a few cybercafes left in town, at least as far as I could find.  I tried to take a bus to one near Luxembourg Garden, but there was a "perturbation" (disturbance) and the bus went only 1/4 of the way there.  So I had to regroup and find a multiple-stop Metro route.  But I did eventually make it to the place and reprint my ticket.   Then, taking the bus to the Salle Pleyel neighborhood, I went one stop too far so I had to backtrack in unfamiliar area.  And it was raining.  And my umbrella blew inside-out several times.  But I got there in time to grab a coffee at Le Do Ré Mi Café across the street.

My seat would have been wonderful (1st row, 1st balcony, keyboard side) except for the fact that there was no leg room and my feet were quite swollen from all the walking, and keeping them at a 90 degree angle was quite irritating.  Plus the concert started with about 15 minutes of talking by a Salle Pleyel official and Valery Gergiev, the Director of the competition (whose remarks, spoken in Russian were translated into French).  There seemed to be a bit of coughing from the audience during this long intro, so perhaps I wasn't the only one finding it too much.  And I didn't have any music to take my mind off my swelling feet!

At intermission I asked the usher if there were any empty seats - it was only my row that was horribly cramped - but he wasn't aware of any.  The place was sold out - one of those "I have good news and I have bad news and it's the same news" kinds of things.

Anyhoo, keep your eyes open for opportunities to hear Narek Hakhnazaryan (he is starting to tour all over the world).  You're not going to confuse his name with anyone else's!  And let me know if you want to join the fan club.

Klezmer Band in the Metro - Saturday, 21 January

The intersections of tunnels (a.k.a., giant echo chambers) in the Métro make perfect locations for musicans to set up and entertain hundreds of travelers at once.  I ran across this band in one of the scores of intersections at the Saint-Michel Métro...they were playing Klezmer music.  But of course!  What else?  

A few days ago it was an accordionist at the Sèvres-Babylone Métro station.  I should start keeping a log!  (Actually, I should be better about throwing a few euros in their open cases.  Must start doing this tomorrow.)  They are actually very good musicians who play classical, pop, ethnic, you name it.  Apparently they have to audition for a certificate to perform in one of about 100 locations in the Métro.  Support your local musicians!  Today!

Square Boucicaut - Saturday, 21 January

I just love all the small parks and squares that dot Paris - they make it such a livable place, almost no matter where you go.  Square Boucicaut is one of my faves!  It is a small triangular parcel of land with hugely varied flora, a playground and merry-go-round for the kiddies, nice walking paths, benches on which to relax, and slightly secluded little corners where you can get away from the crowd while still feeling completely safe.  It's right at the Sèvres-Babylone Métro stop, just next to Le Bon Marché department store (so very handy for talking a load off your feet if you've spent too much time shopping) and, thus, just a couple blocks from the apartment I'm using this trip!  See.  It's all about me!!!

Bordeaux by Way of Le Cordon Bleu - Friday, 20 January

I was just thinking about the fact that gastronomy is an art form as well as a science (actually several - chemistry, biology, physics....).  But then it occurred to me that most other art forms also have some scientific dimensions, perhaps not as evenly balanced as with gastronomy, but there none the less.  I shall continue to ponder this over the next few days as I enjoy some of those other art forms, but meanwhile let me tell you about my class at Le Cordon Bleu.

First, here's a glimpse of the lovely architecture and a park that greet you when you get off the Metro at the Vaugirard station just a couple blocks from Le Cordon Bleu.  These are always views that say "home" to me, perhaps because I've used this station so many times!


The 2.5 hour lecture/demonstration I chose to attend (joining the regular full-time students for this portion of their day) was in the cuisine of Bordeaux.  Of course, Bordeaux is famous for its wines, but fabulous seafood, freshwater fish, lamb, beef, game, duck and mushrooms also come from this region.  Chef starts the class by telling the students about the region, its products, typical dishes and preparations, where to go if they visit the region, etc.  Then he launches into the cooking lesson for the day.

The typical lesson consists of preparing a 3-course meal (some of the courses have multiple parts). Students receive a list of ingredients and quantities, and Chef begins cookin', starting with preparation of elements that take the longest and thus jumping back and forth continually among the three courses and the various elements of each, and demonstrating and explaining the "hows" and "whys" and ingredients and history and alternatives and safety along the way.  Ya gotta stay awake and take notes!

Today's menu consisted of barely-cooked oysters from the Arcachon basin (an area that Chef told us had the largest sand dunes in Europe - people even ski on them using snowboards and downhill skis!) on a bed of braised leeks (so fabulous - somewhat smoky while still herbal) with an intense beurre blanc sauce and mini "chipolata" sausages; duck breast ("magret") with Bordelaise sauce, potato cylinders poached in chicken stock and herbs, seasonal mushrooms, and bacon; and "Canneles" (the fabulous traditional bite-size caramelized cakes of Bordeaux).  All of these items are among my very favorite things to eat, and I was especially interested to learn LCB's technique for Canneles since none of the ones I've made come quite to the point of perfection I'm looking for!  I wasn't disappointed.

At the end of the class, Chef presents each course in an individual serving style (and sometimes in a family serving style) and the students applaud and then mob to the front of the room to take photos before tasting each dish for themselves.  Guest "students" like myself get to do the same thing!  A hecuva deal for 45 euro (a little under $60 at today's very favorable exchange rates).

Later in their "practical" the fulltime students make this whole lesson themselves, and bring the food back to their apartment (or, horrors, throw it in the garbage) after their work is evaluated by Chef.  This is how they really learn their handskills and educate their palates, but any experienced cook can learn a lot by attending one of the lecture/demonstrations.  And they offer full-day hands-on classes and workshops on a variety of cuisine and pastry and wine topics for the public.  And there are lots of cool books and other stuff to buy in their shop!  What more could you ask for?  http://www.cordonbleu.edu/lcb-paris/en

The View Out my Window - Thursday, 19 January

There's a major construction project happening across the street - I'm not sure what this complex of buildings was before, nor what it's becoming, but I love the way the buildings are preserved here despite renovations and repurposing. Let's hear it for character! Let's hear it for charm! Let's hear it for ancient relics! (And I don't mean just old codgers like me.)

Since I can't string these photos left-to-right for you, I'll paste them vertically.  I'm sure you can see how they fit together.  (By the way, you can click on any of the photos in this blog and it will enlarge for you.)

You'll notice the handy dandy huge food market, La Grand Epicerie de Paris, almost directly across the street from me and Le Bon Marche department store right next to it.  Temptation, temptation.  (Not to mention the fact that the annual big January sales are "on" all over town!)

Gettin' there is Half the Battle - Wednesday, 18 January

My least favorite things about traveling are the actual transportation-related aspects, especially when it comes to flying.  (A nice road trip can be a delightful experience on the other hand.)  You know, packing your bags, getting the cat to the boarder, dealing with bulky suitcases, standing in massive lines, being patted down by the security staff at the airport, cramming your wide butt (OK, mine is wider than yours) into a cramped airplane seat, eating whatever-that-stuff-is that they serve on airplanes, dealing with ground transportation.  If you have figured out a way to psych yourself into enjoying this part of the traveling experience, tell me - I'm all ears!

This time it wasn't TOO bad, though.  Very few people at the airport - nobody in line ahead of me at the security gate, and I didn't inconvenience too many people behind me when I slowed the line at the scanner because I had to be patted down (I can't walk without my shoes, so I don't take them off and therefore I always get the extra treatment!).

This being an international flight, I had plenty of time to enjoy a tasty pre-departure salami, cheese, arugula & chutney sandwich with pickles and beets and a "Magic Hat #9 Not Quite Pale Ale" (a new one for me - yum yum!) at Surdyk's, meaning that I could just eat the salad and a bit of the "chicken" on the plane.

The next bit of good news was that the plane was only about 1/3 full, allowing me to stretch across the 3 middle seats.  Not that I could sleep soundly, but it still was fortuitous.

And we had good tail winds so we arrived in Paris about an hour early.  And we could actually pull up to a jetway (didn't have to climb down stairs from the plane to the tarmac and get into a bus, which frequently happens).  And there was a short line at passport check.

I almost thought I would have nothing to complain about (horrors!), but then it took about 50 minutes of standing outside waiting for my shuttle to arrive (they quote you 15 minutes).  And there were already seven other people on it.  And my phone wasn't switching to the local service provider so I couldn't call the apartment manager to tell him I'd be arriving later than I had estimated.  Happily, though, I was able to get an email to him (more about that in a later post!) and just as the shuttle pulled up outside my building he was walking out the door to run an errand.  Whew!  He was able to take me up to my 6th floor atelier style studio right away (and haul one of my suitcases for me) and get me situated.  And just in the nick of time.  I needed a nap!