Right in the center of Paris at 18, rue Coquillière you’ll find an almost-200-year-old cookware store called E. Dehillerin. It was established in 1820 and sits adjacent to the location of the old fabulous glass and iron “Les Halles” food markets (torn down in the 1960’s after 800 years of operation in that location). All the big chefs in town (and many of us tiny chefs from across the pond) buy their pots and pans and whisks and knives and spoons and molds and porcelain and serviceware and pastry bags and oyster gloves and (you name it!) there. On my first visit to the store in the late 1980’s a salesman by the name of Franck took care of me (you can’t miss him – a tall Frenchman, dark curly hair tied back in a small ponytail). His English was absolutely wonderful, so I asked how he had learned to speak it so well and he told me that he had lived in New Hope, Minnesota for a couple years (there was this girl, you see….)! So we bonded immediately, and to this day he’s the only salesman I let wait on me, assuming he’s not out fishin’ or something. And I tell all of my friends to ask for him when they shop there, and to tell him that Ms. Jacobson from Minneapolis sent them. Trust me, he remembers!There are other much tidier cookware shops in the same neighborhood, but this old somewhat dusty no-nonsense place with worn floors and wooden warehouse shelves takes the prize! It’s the real deal! Their system is a little confusing: most of the merchandise is labeled with a code and you have to go to one of the price lists throughout the store to figure out the price. Or, of course, just have Franck look it up for you!
I bought just a few items this trip (good news, Leah: the copper cannelé molds were back in stock!) and I told Franck that I wanted to have my picture taken with him since it was my birthday. So here’s a shot of Franck celebrating with his best customer! www.e-dehillerin.fr
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