Independent Gastronomic Research! - Friday, 20 September

Friday! Episode 1 of my independent gastronomic research project! Lunch reservations at La Condesa in the 9th, a place I read about on John Talbott’s blog, that received its first Michelin Star this year. It now has the coveted Mariellen Star too! It’s tiny (by U.S. standards) – about 20 seats.

The “menu” was just a price list! How many courses do you want? How about wine pairings? Here’s your price. The server asked if I had any allergies (nope!) and if I wanted filtered or sparkling water, and then it was off to the races!

For my first amuse bouche, a crispy lacy freshly-made tiny corn tostada, with soft and slightly herby goat cheese and tiny flavor-packed fennel flowers. Fascinating! And just the thing to get the taste buds fired up all around your palate.

The second amuse, a summer pumpkin frittata. A little wedge of tender pumpkin was dipped in tempura batter and fried. Slightly spicy mayonnaise had been piped on top after frying, and then some Espelette pepper sprinkled on top. Sweet!

And an entertaining presentation to boot - it's been a trend for the last few years!

Third amuse, a lidded bowl containing mild-flavored fennel foam, with a quenelle of Verjus-grape sorbet. On top of the lid was some pumpkin seed crumble to stir in. So entertaining, and lighter than air. I didn’t clearly hear what the server told me about the sorbet, and I had a heckuva time identifying what the flavor was (faintly lemony, clearly fruity, a bit of a zing) so I had to ask again when she came to clear my dish…I’m glad I did.

First course, a slice of very tasty pork-veal-foie gras terrine with baby radishes splashed in lemony vinaigrette and herb purée. Lovely crunch and slight astringency from the radishes, perfectly balanced terrine where every element complimented the others. Also, a nice thick chunk of very crusty whole wheat bread. Yummers! With it, a Rainer Wess Grüner Veltliner white wine – its soft, slightly floral, delicate flavors of stone fruit married very nicely with the mild flavors of the terrine.

Second course, some line-caught charcoal-grilled Pollock (a type of cod – firm, mild, very slightly oily, deeeelicious), with grilled zucchini slices, braised leeks, fennel purée and fronds, and a ribbon of daikon. These were all fairly sweet flavors, and a quite tannic and fruity Etna Planeta red from Sicily balanced it nicely. This was an interesting wine – on the nose I got soft flowers and chocolate spongecake, but on the palate it was more astringent and minerally and stoney.

The Domaine Overnoy Crémant du Jura Extra Brut that was poured before dessert could have been dessert all by itself. Wow! The gorgeous intoxicating (in every sense) tiny bubbles and herbal, earthy, slightly funky flavors were outta sight. It would be fantastic with soft cheeses or chocolate anything!

The dessert theme was white peaches – a peach custard-type cream in the bottom of the bowl, topped with some chunks of fresh peaches, then a mild peach foam. A quenelle of pomegranate sorbet added a terrific element of freshness and red-fruitiness. It was lovely and refreshing by itself, but it fought with the Cremant so I just drank my water and saved the bubbly for sipping with my post-dessert hot rich espresso.

I had a chance to chat with chef/owner Indra Carillo after lunch. He grew up in Mexico, where he started cooking as a very young boy. He has worked in India, the Far East, New York, Copenhagen, London, Italy and Paris (in some of the very top kitchens), and he got his formal training at Institut Paul Bocuse. His English is very good, so be sure to talk with him when you visit!

When I glanced in the kitchen, it looked like the United Nations! I wonder if Chef Carillo gets some menu ideas from his workers. In any case, they sure have the skills to execute the varied-yet-solidly-French techniques required for his menus. I’ll want to try more of his concoctions next trip!  http://lacondesa-paris.com/en/home/