You’d think I had formed some kind of alliance with Alliance given the big double-handed handshake and huge smile I got from the host/co-owner Shawn Joyeux (at left in this photo) when I arrived at the door today! Well, I guess, in a way, I have. This wonderful little resto just off the river and upstream a tish from Notre Dame ties with La Dame de Pic for my #1 pick. They recognize me (I believe that this was my sixth visit), and I’m even more excited to see them than they are to see me! And, of course, to eat Chef Toshitaka Omiya's astonishing food.
My welcome glass of Champagne was a Rosé Brut from Philippe Gonet, 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir – silky and fresh, tiny bubbles, with the sense of cherry and red currant and just a touch of rosemary and slate.
Their terrific assemblage of amuse-bouche included tiny beet and cucumber wraps, a perfect hollow warm gougère with just the right cheese quantity/intensity, a peppery pâte feuilleté breadstick, a lollipop of ethereal buttery mousse and bacon, a tiny crispy pastry saucer with squash purée and olive oil, and a thin waffle filled with braised onion and anchovies. Wow – the assortment of textures and tastes was very amusing indeed, and the sharper tastes like the pepper breadstick amplified the fruitiness of my Champagne.
Then, a thick slice from the center of a large tomato with fermented tomato water and thin slices of raw leeks and jalapeños, served with a hunk of warm sweet airy rustic bread. Tons of flavor, a bit of acid, and zero heaviness, as if to say “there’s more coming, but you’ll have room for it!”
Next, spears of roasted smoky eggplant with a bit of chili pepper, some very smoky crunchy almonds, in a little pool of chilled juice rendered from darkly roasted vegetables. It was served with a bit of toasted brioche which amplified the smokiness of the eggplant.
With it, a 2020 Domaine des Hauts Chassis Saint-Peray Les Calcaires from the Rhone, 50% Roussanne and 50% Marsanne grapes. Smoky, yellow onion, plum, celery leaf, slate – a terrific matchup.
Then, an artichoke dish so beautiful I almost cried. Braised hearts and stems with coriander and carrots in a singed hollandaise sauce. No words.
With the artichokes, a 2022 Niepoort Redoma Branco old-vine white Portuguese blend (Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Viosinho). Sturdy, a bit citrusy and tropical and nutty, with a hint of sage and grape stem.
Up next, tiny potato gnocchi with a generous shower of caviar and some samphire for the herb in a Sauvignon Blanc reduction (salt, sea, freshness). Holy moley! Gnocchi can be on the heavy side but these were ethereal and the sauce stood on its own without overpowering them. Balance! Surprise! Delight!
With it, a crisp 2023 Croq Silex Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Benoit Chauveau, 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Just a hint of smokiness, nice acidity, citrus and apple, a bit of flint. Any sense of heaviness from the gnocchi was dispelled with this wine.
Then, a chunk of sweet sweet steamed lobster claw, a tempura-fried zucchini blossom, and pickled artichoke stem with a bit of shellfish reduction. On the side, two little lobster “sandwiches” – thin slices of grilled bread stuffed with shredded lobster meat.
With it, a 2020 Château La Martinette Reflets d'Argens Rosé. Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Vermentino grapes. Slightly effervescent, a hint of rhubarb, dried flowers and herbs, malt and brioche came forward with the lobster. Delightful!
Next, in the ever-growing crescendo, foie gras! Of the duck variety! A large serving of absolutely AAA-grade silky melty barely-funky mui-cuit on a thick latitudinal slice of braised daikon radish under a blanket of chives in a ginger-chicken broth containing a wonderful kick of chili. I mean, I always go a little bit nuts when I’m served foie gras, but this was off the charts and worth the price of admission!
With it, a 2023 Disznókö Tokaji Dry (Hungarian Furmint grape). Green apple, pear, almond, slight acidity and minerality to cut through the fat without diminishing any of the remarkable flavors of the dish.
Then, just when you thought the crescendo might be at its climax, a gorgeous tender almost-herbal baby lamb chop served with roasted leg meat, just-sauteéd spinach, white bean purée, and intense lamb demi-glace. Heaven on a plate!
With it, a 2023 Domaine Billard Père et Fils Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (Pinot Noir) that felt like flannel PJs! Beautiful red fruits (raspberry, cherry, etc.), earth, a hint of pepper. What a combo!
Alliance has the best cheese cart, and I was absolutely stuffed at this point, but I just couldn’t say no to little slices of the “barge” aged goat cheese, the aged 3-texture sheep's, and Fourme d'Ambert bleu.
A splash of Château de Rotalier Le Crémant du Jura “Comte Hélion” sparkling wine was just the thing with the cheese! Chardonnay and Savagnin, fresh, slightly nutty, a nice contrast.
Then, chocolate! Thin airy crispy crusty shards made with 65% cocoa solids chocolate, a bit of mousse, cookie crumbles, jasmine ice cream (who wouldda thunk?) and a pepper crème. By this point you’d think my palate had experienced almost every possible sensation, but hey, here comes some more! It made me chuckle!
With it, a 2006 (!) Domaine de Montgilet Côteaux de l'Aubance from the Loire (Chenin Blanc). A late harvest wine, so it's concentrated, sweet and rich, with flavors of tropical fruits.
And to ensure enough sweet notes at the end of the meal, their mignardises – a small marshmallow, financier, and macaron! I really couldn’t fit them in my stomach, so I asked host/co-owner Shawn if they had a little box.
He brought me what became my favorite souvenir of the trip, which I believe is a caviar tin, affixed with a little Alliance label! Just the right size for taking home some remaining cheese bites and the mignardises!
OK, OK, I do have to admit that this meal was right at (or beyond) the maximum my body can take, and I was slightly tipsy when I left, and I had some indigestion for most of the evening! Just for fun I asked them to leave the wine glasses on the table after I completed each course so I could get this shot of me as the great white hunter!
Despite my declining mobility it’s meals like this that keep me dealing with the “whatevers“ and continuing to travel to Paris. These experiences are my “Powdermilk Biscuits, giving me the strength to get up and do what needs to be done!” (IYKYK).
Ten patrons at lunch today, 1 chef, 2 cooks and 3 servers. We were well taken care of!
Alliance, 5 Rue de Poissy, 75005 https://www.restaurant-alliance.fr/en/the-fine-dining-table.html One Michelin star.
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