Water! It’s absolutely essential for survival, and once in a while you run across one that elicits an “oh, ya, baby!” and today was one of those times at Restaurant Amâlia. The sparkling mineral water Abatilles was new to me – medium viscosity, fresh, lovely minerals, just a hint of salt, fine bubbles. It comes a close second to my favorite Badoit. This afternoon I learned from a friend that Abatilles is sourced near Bordeaux and frequently seen in restos there. Subsequent research revealed that it originates at the Arcachon basin at a depth of 1,548 ft; the depth – consisting of layers of sand, limestone and clay – functions as a filter, ensuring the water’s pristine qualities and keeping it free from nitrates. So glad that it has made an appearance in Paris!
They offer both a vegetarian menu and an “I eat everything” menu. Three guesses as to which one I picked. If you’re stymied (or not), keep reading!
My little welcome bites are a cardamom breadstick and cool crème fraiche with spicy Hungarian paprika – surprising and tasty. And with a very clever breadstick holder!
Next, three hors d’oeuvre:
- A thin caramelized pastry cylinder filled with mild red pepper and orange cream and dipped in toasted coconut – fascinating combination of flavors
- A pastry basket with fish purée, basil oil, mustard seed and a Japanese herb that I think is a type of seaweed – very refined
- A slice of a tiny cheesy tarte with a cookie crust, grated Parmesan and balsamic vinegar
With the first course, a Dehours & Fils Champagne Grande Réserve, mostly Pinot Meunier. Flavors of pear, lemon zest, brioche; slightly heavier viscosity than you find in most Champagnes; tiny bubbles. My server said that the blend includes wine from the 1998 vinification. Delightful!
The dish: beautifully crafted pillowy gnocchi with poached oysters, rustic black pudding (a texture like pulled pork, organy), tiny croutons, red bell pepper sauce, and a creamy potato foam. Sort of a funky surf and turf! The Champagne broke the intensity and fattiness and added a tiny citrus note.
With the next course, a Gérard et Hubert Thirot Cuvée Pierre Pinot Noir from 2020. Dry, a bit acidic, sense of currant and sour cherries.
I was so excited about my monkfish course that I dove right in before taking a photo! It was the best I’ve had in a long time – pure, sweet, steaky (I could barely flake it), dense, not very “fishy,” served with spinach, chicory greens, black sesame seeds and vegetable stock. On the side, some lovage-scented hollandaise with a drizzle of basil oil and a hint of garlic. Monkfish have huge teeth and a very scary appearance (I’ve seen a complete fish only once) – so their heads are usually removed before displaying them. Their tails, however, are absolutely delicious and uniquely flavored/textured – a wonderful treat. The wine's cherry aspects came forward as it cut through all of this fat and deliciousness!
For dessert, rice pudding (very popular here!) topped with with rhubarb confit, rhubarb sorbet, whipped cream infused with star anise, and tiny crispy meringue kisses. With it, a clever cocktail made with rhubarb juice and a bit of vodka(?).
Finally with my Italian espresso (I was given a couple of options) a tiny peanut and salty caramel tart, and the most unusual and entertaining mignardise to-date: small shards of pop rocks enrobed in semisweet chocolate and dusted with a gold powder! Remember pop rocks? They’re caramelized sugar, taken to the hard crack stage and embedded with pressurized carbon dioxide. These were unflavored – just the caramelized sugar – and popped surprisingly and pleasantly in my mouth for quite a few seconds, imparting a bit of zing along the way. Total entertainment!
Restaurant Amâlia, 32 rue de la Fontaine Au Roi 75011. One Michelin star. https://amaliarestaurant.com/en
The kitchen to my left and an open sliding door to my right - a very pleasant setting on a beautiful day!
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