Bordeaux by Way of Le Cordon Bleu - Friday, 20 January

I was just thinking about the fact that gastronomy is an art form as well as a science (actually several - chemistry, biology, physics....).  But then it occurred to me that most other art forms also have some scientific dimensions, perhaps not as evenly balanced as with gastronomy, but there none the less.  I shall continue to ponder this over the next few days as I enjoy some of those other art forms, but meanwhile let me tell you about my class at Le Cordon Bleu.

First, here's a glimpse of the lovely architecture and a park that greet you when you get off the Metro at the Vaugirard station just a couple blocks from Le Cordon Bleu.  These are always views that say "home" to me, perhaps because I've used this station so many times!


The 2.5 hour lecture/demonstration I chose to attend (joining the regular full-time students for this portion of their day) was in the cuisine of Bordeaux.  Of course, Bordeaux is famous for its wines, but fabulous seafood, freshwater fish, lamb, beef, game, duck and mushrooms also come from this region.  Chef starts the class by telling the students about the region, its products, typical dishes and preparations, where to go if they visit the region, etc.  Then he launches into the cooking lesson for the day.

The typical lesson consists of preparing a 3-course meal (some of the courses have multiple parts). Students receive a list of ingredients and quantities, and Chef begins cookin', starting with preparation of elements that take the longest and thus jumping back and forth continually among the three courses and the various elements of each, and demonstrating and explaining the "hows" and "whys" and ingredients and history and alternatives and safety along the way.  Ya gotta stay awake and take notes!

Today's menu consisted of barely-cooked oysters from the Arcachon basin (an area that Chef told us had the largest sand dunes in Europe - people even ski on them using snowboards and downhill skis!) on a bed of braised leeks (so fabulous - somewhat smoky while still herbal) with an intense beurre blanc sauce and mini "chipolata" sausages; duck breast ("magret") with Bordelaise sauce, potato cylinders poached in chicken stock and herbs, seasonal mushrooms, and bacon; and "Canneles" (the fabulous traditional bite-size caramelized cakes of Bordeaux).  All of these items are among my very favorite things to eat, and I was especially interested to learn LCB's technique for Canneles since none of the ones I've made come quite to the point of perfection I'm looking for!  I wasn't disappointed.

At the end of the class, Chef presents each course in an individual serving style (and sometimes in a family serving style) and the students applaud and then mob to the front of the room to take photos before tasting each dish for themselves.  Guest "students" like myself get to do the same thing!  A hecuva deal for 45 euro (a little under $60 at today's very favorable exchange rates).

Later in their "practical" the fulltime students make this whole lesson themselves, and bring the food back to their apartment (or, horrors, throw it in the garbage) after their work is evaluated by Chef.  This is how they really learn their handskills and educate their palates, but any experienced cook can learn a lot by attending one of the lecture/demonstrations.  And they offer full-day hands-on classes and workshops on a variety of cuisine and pastry and wine topics for the public.  And there are lots of cool books and other stuff to buy in their shop!  What more could you ask for?  http://www.cordonbleu.edu/lcb-paris/en