Friday, January 27, 2023

Auberge Nicolas Flamel Just Rocketed to my Top Five List - Friday, 27 January


Auberge Nicolas Flamel opened in 2021 and received its first Michelin star in 2022.  That's fast!  It also just rocketed up to my top five list.  

It's a little over a block from the Pompidou in one of the oldest houses in Paris (1407), once owned by a rich bourgeois scribe and manuscript seller (and possibly alchemist) Nicolas Flamel.  Read all about this fascinating guy here:   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Flamel   

On my journey to lunch, the narrow one-way streets were absolutely clogged, and I was clearly uncertain exactly where the resto was located, so my taxi driver took pity on me and backed down two blocks-worth of these narrow streets to deposit me right at the front door!  Bravo, monsieur, et merci!

Helmed by chef Grégory Garimbay, this resto is outta sight!  I predict that it will be one of those impossible-to-book restos before too long.

First up, three amuse bouche (instructed to eat in this order):

  • Abalone served in a beautiful shell with creamy mayo, herbs, a bit of pepper, and croutons - light and gorgeous with just a hint of the sea
  • Artichoke Tarte Tatin with crème fraîche horseradish sauce, powdered pine, parsley, and pistachio - it played fun little tricks with your palate
  • Beef tartare served on a warm stone with peppery beef jus caviar - brilliant and spectacular

the beef tartare up close







Auberge Nicolas Flamel makes their own very-high-fat butter using milk from Normandy.  A-a-a-mazing!  And tasty!






For my first main course, roasted (burnt) leeks "Poire William" (with pears and cream sauce) with leek oil.  They were tender, moist, sweet, unctuous, slightly acidic, and the char of the skin added to the amazing earthiness.  Sorry that I jumped right into this plate before taking a picture, but my oh my, it was so tempting!





The pan-grilled cod on the bone was the purest I've ever encountered.  The reduced fish stock was herbal, slightly astringent, with an oily consistency.  Gorgeous roasted salsify and tiny mushrooms were deep and juicy, and the salsify purée was velvety and sweet with a very faint artichoke bitterness.  There was an interesting tiny fruit on the plate - I think they were a type of seaweed called sea grapes - they popped and released juice like caviar when chewed.



With my main courses, a white Burgundy - Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis - paired beautifully. It was dry, with senses of apricot pit, limestone, white fruit, coriander.






For dessert, a baked clementine meringue with clementine zest mousse, dill, and Batak berry pepper, served with a little bowl of sweet anise crème Anglaise.  Holy crap.  The meringue was so light it could have floated away.  I could have drunk the whole bowl of the crème Anglaise.  What a combo!


Then, as if that wasn't enough, a small sage-poached pear with vanilla bean caramel.  A Financier (small almond cake) topped with crème Chantilly and chocolate shavings.  And Italian meringue "on a stick" with a white chocolate citrus gel.  I do believe that I heard angels singing.




For my digestif, a liqueur made with green apples and berries by the Chartreuse monks.  Complex, sweet, herbal, berry, fruit, viscous, lower alcohol than many other liqueurs, but it certainly enhanced the digestion!






Here's Chef Grégory Garimbay with his new best customer and chief pusher!  Go, while you can still get a reservation!

Auberge Nicolas Flamel, 51 rue de Montmorency 75003  https://auberge.nicolas-flamel.fr/

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