On my first solo trip to Paris in 1989 I took myself out for a big 40th birthday dinner at a resto a couple blocks from the Hotel Tonic on rue du Roule where I was staying. The next morning I overslept and missed the hotel’s breakfast buffet. I thought “I can’t spend the next decade sleeping,” so I dressed quickly, threw some water on my face, and headed around the corner to a cafe at the corner of rue Saint-HonorĂ© and rue du Pont Neuf. The waiter called me mademoiselle! I think I laughed.

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