Never-Ending (Destruction and) Construction at Les Halles - Monday, 31 October

Les Halles prior to the 1970s

For quite a few years, I took photos of the massive reconstruction of the Les Halles area every trip. This is the former fabulous central food market of Paris in the 1st arrondissement that has quite a history of construction, destruction and re-construction! In 1135 King Louis le Gros commissioned the construction of a public market or Halle at a place known as Campelli (fields) then Les Champeaux. In the mid-19th century the architect Baltard designed massive iron and glass market stalls (here’s a historical photo), which were immortalized in Emile Zola’s novel The Belly of Paris. They were torn down in the early 1970’s, the wholesale food markets were sent to the suburb of Rungis, a rather nasty underground shopping mall was built (an immediately became a teen hangout and hub of petty crime), and a series of moderately successful plantings, paths and structures were installed on the ground level. About 10 years ago Paris held a competition for a new design for the area, the former amenities (except the shopping mall) were bulldozed, and it’s been under re-construction ever since. I swear, every trip they just keep changing the projected completion date of the project - it’s always about 2 years out!

promotional photo of  the canopée 

Anyhoo, one new structure, a massive undulating “canopée” has finally been installed above the shopping mall, opening at least part of it to sunlight and fresh air, and adding a new rather attractive visual element to the streetscape.

just outside brasserie
Champeaux

And superstar chef Alain Ducasse has just opened a modern brasserie called “Champeaux” on the ground level under the canopée. It’s getting good reviews, so we decided to check it out for lunch! Unfortunately, since I was dragging us around the neighborhood visiting cookware, baking and uniform shops (you should see my new chef’s jacket!), by the time we got there it was afternoon snack time and they were serving just a few sandwiches & salads & desserts, and not the individual soufflés for which they are becoming famous. Oh, well. Our sandwiches and desserts were very tasty!

I hope to remain healthy and mobile enough to eventually see the completion of Les Halles' re-construction. We'll see! I will definitely swing by "Champeaux" again for a meal or snack or soufflé!  http://www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/champeaux