This morning I headed off to The American Church in Paris, my favorite Sunday morning haunt (a beautiful site on the banks of the Seine at 65, quai d’Orsay https://www.acparis.org/ ). Normally the iron gates at the main entrance are swung to the inside so that I can use the little curved railing along the steps and then grab onto the gate post to get up to the courtyard. But today only one section of the gate on each side was swung in, meaning I would have to shimmy on the penultimate step. Why? Who knows? Heightened security for some reason? I'm not up for shimmying today, but there is a scissors lift off to the right, and a button to push for an intercom to have someone in the office activate the lift, and then a button to call the lift. But nothing worked. The usher/security guy at the door was busy with other people so I gave up and took a taxi to the Passage des Panoramas, where I intended to have lunch.
But another barricade! Just one block of rue du Louvre was blocked off between rue de Rivoli and rue Saint-Honoré (for no apparent reason), causing a huge traffic jam. Also, there were giant tour buses all over the place near the Louvre, and masses of (mostly Japanese) tourists around the Louvre. My driver complained about how terrible Paris has become (not sure what in particular he was referencing), stores and restos closing, etc. He tried to go a couple blocks westward on rue de Rivoli without any progress and then turned around in the middle of the street to take a big detour via blvd de Sebastopol several blocks to the east.
Eagerly anticipating my favorite confit de canard at Canard & Champagne in Passage des Panoramas (it’s been many years), I didn’t mind getting there early. They weren’t open quite yet, but they said it was OK to shift my 1:00 reservation to noon, so I just had to cool my jets for 10 minutes. Quite a few shops seem to have closed in this Passage, it was chilly & dirtier than I remember, and there seemed to be a few cracks or holes in the floor with light underneath. Hmmm. I thought the surface was stone and tile on the ground. Perhaps there’s a lower level. In any case, it was kind of creepy!
So back to Champagne & Canard at noon. Sadly, in their interior space the only seating option was tall tables with stools and a high banquette. I thought that I would try the banquette, but there was really no easy way to hoist myself up onto it. And it was cold and windy at the regular tables out in the Passage. So a virtual barricade. So I left. https://www.frenchparadox.paris/
Kind of hungry at this point, though, so I walked down the street to a café. There was a table on the terrace under a heat lamp (I thought that those had been outlawed!) so I grabbed it! Ordered an adequate ham, mushroom and olive pizza. They are usually served with a carafe of spicy oil in Paris (with peppers, herbs, and garlic infusing in the oil); here they brought little ketchup-sized packets of spicy oil. I couldn’t eat all the pizza, but I’ve started carrying a small plastic bag in my backpack, so I was able to bring a couple slices home to satisfy future munchies!